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Strona Muzeum Narodowego w Lublinie > Katalog zbiorów > Married woman's cap `humełka`

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unknown (tailor), Married woman's cap `humełka`

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Measures:	Diameter: 18 cm
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Inventory number:	E/524/ML
Location:	The National Museum in Lublin (Lublin Castle), ul. Zamkowa 9, Lublin

Popularizing note

Woman’s headgear (Polish: humełka) consisting of a linden hoop called obiecaina, on which a hand-made net hat with white thread on a loom is stretched. The rim is wrapped on the outside with a narrow strip of linen fabric, the so-called cloth decorated with red and blue woven stripes. The cloth strip is tied in a knot at the back, with one end extended decoratively from the top at the front of the hat, the other being at the back, and their edges finished with embroidery and hand-made lace. At the bottom, there are attached five factory-made long ribbons in red and white with floral patterns reaching down to the waist. They are sewn on both sides, one above the other, so that only half of them, and only the central part in its entirety, are visible. This type of headdress comes from the end of the 19th century and was worn by young married women for festive dress in the parish of Krzczonów. The Krzczonów outfit is the most recognisable in the Lublin region and is sometimes called the Lublin costume. However, this is a misnomer as there are fourteen other types of costumes in the Lublin region, each of which is different. They differ in cut, colour and ornamentation, which is a result of their affiliation to different ethnographic areas: in the south to Lesser Poland (Małopolska), in the north to Mazovia, and in the east to Russian influences. The Krzczonów costume was found in the central part of the voivodeship. Originally, it was made of linen and referred to the garments of Lesser Poland, but by the end of the 19th century, factory materials and haberdashery began to be used. At that time, the cut of particular elements was also changed, and a new type of embroidery, cross-stitch, was introduced, which changed the appearance of the festive garment (see E/516/ML). It was very colourful and distinguished from other costumes of Lublin; therefore, after the Second World War, it was eagerly reconstructed by folk groups.